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Monthly Archives: September 2016

Wooden Garage Beneifts

I bought a car. For a long time it stood in the yard. It was not matter there was a cold winter, rain or the hot sun was shining. But one day I saw that environmental factors was affecting my car, so I decided to build a garage. I was reading and very interested in articles about garages of all types of material. I did not know what to choose, because I have not enough money and it made a hard decision for me. One day I looked through the fence and I saw that in my neighbour’s yard stood a wooden garage. So I decide to go to visit him and ask about his garage. He said a lot of good things about it, but I will write only some the most important things which maybe will help you if you think about building a garage.

Wood is one of the cheapest materials for building. The normal wooden garage will not cost for you abnormal sum of money. If you cannot afford to build a brick or concrete garage – it would be one of the best decisions. Wooden garages are made with different kind of wood, but mostly firs are used. Wood is a renewable and organic material, so it is very friendly to you and to the environment.

Wooden buildings are strong standing and stable. Wood adapts to different weather conditions, so it does not matter how cold or rainy outside is – it will stand for you over one hundred years and if you properly care of it – it could stand much more years. There is still standing the oldest church built from wood which stands over 1700 years in Russia.

In a rainy season wood can take all humidity to itself and when it is dry outside, it gives all humidity back to the air. This is one of the best characteristics in a wood, because you do not need to worry that wood will rot. You can cover the garage’s surface with different impregnants which can save your garage from often rains, or fire. Wooden garages are fireproof too, I know, it is hard to believe, but it is the truth. There are a lot of fireproof materials, which could help to beef up this feature.

One more plus of wooden garages is that no matter what season is – there always be a normal temperature inside. It has a feature to keep warmth in winter, and cool in summer. Wooden garages a very hermetic, so your car will be always protected.

Use of the garage depends on your imagination. You can make it like a workplace, warehouse for all your home stuff, or maybe like a garden house with separate doors to enter.

Wood could be processed with other materials. You can make that outside of the garage would look like made from log, bricks or concrete. You can paint it with some different colours, which looks beautiful and protects your garage from environmental effects. You can decorate your garage not only to ornament your yard, but make it look like in the old times.

When my neighbour told me about his garage’s advantages, I really thought of buying one. It is the best decision for those who really wants to protect their car and make their yard tidy and cozy. My advice, if you are going to buy a car, think firstly about a garage. And if you need to decide how to build a garage quickly – think about wooden garages or. I really believe that you will not be disappointed.

 

About Trees and Plants

They assume an essential part in the upkeep of the level of condition. Plants have a positive visual effect. Individuals develop trees and plants in each encompassing. They are planted out and about sides, inside and outside the structures, open places and even in home greenery enclosures. Trees and plants are planted on the roadsides for enhancing the natural and ecological characteristics of the roadsides. They are planted inside office building, schools, universities, doctor’s facilities lodgings and so on, parks and so forth. There are a few plants which are planted for the reason of excellence.

Such plants are decorative. What’s more, a few plants and trees are developed to yield solid natural product crops from them. Either decorative or natural product, plants and trees are critical for the earth. They give shade and purge the atmosphere. They likewise decorate the scenes.

They increase the value of any property. Fruit trees and fruit plants are charming for everyone. Everybody is fond of fresh fruit taken directly from the plant. If you are a home gardener and wish to grow fruits in your garden then you can now bring fresh apples, cherries, plums, apricots, strawberries, and many more fruits easily in your reach. There is nothing pleasant than bringing your own grown fresh fruits to your table. They are not only healthy but also a source of endless joy for you. You can grow any fruit plant in your garden depending upon the size of your garden.

Growing fruit plants is an interesting hobby but it needs certain requirements and particular care. For some fruits like apple, cherries, peaches, plums etc there must be a specific temperature between 32 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit to grow otherwise they will fail to grow. They also require full sun. If proper care is taken then you will have a wonderful yield of healthy fruits throughout the season. For growing plants and trees you need a reliable nursery to provide you good quality plants. For this purpose we at Mr. TREEBY will help you. We will provide you best quality plants and trees of your choice.

And also offer you any guidance for plantation to help you get the best result of your investment. You can browse treesandplants.co.uk and find the best plant for you. When you are buying plants from us we ensure you that you are buying at the most affordable prices from us as compare to other market nurseries. You can shop online for any type of plant or tree you want to grow in your orchard or garden. We are top online supplier of plants and trees. You can view some of the top quality varieties of plants and trees that we sell through our website. We are always ready to assist you with your next tree order. We claim to be the relied source in the nursery industry. We deliver anywhere in UK and guarantee you that your trees and plants will arrive your place in an excellent form and condition.

Identify Diseases in Your Plant

Evergreen trees are beautiful to look at and they can add much value to your property. Understanding the various nutrients, type of soil and amount of water they require are essential to maintain good health. Additionally, a fair amount of knowledge on diseases that affect evergreens will ensure that you call a professional for tree disease control in IL in time.

Needle cast disease

Needle cast is caused by fungi and affects conifers such that hey start losing their leaves or needles. The disease is very common and over 40 types of needle casts are found in North America alone. At first, one can see light green or yellow spots on the needles. These turn into red or brown spots eventually. The fungus grows and ultimately leads to death of the entire needle which then falls off. Once spots start appearing, call a tree insect and disease control ILcompany to inspect.

Needle blight disease

Blight is a group of diseases that includes brown spot, Diplodia and Dothistroma. These diseases attack the needles by girdling them and killing the tips of the branches. They mainly decrease ornamental value of the plants or trees and the tree usually does not die when affected with needle blight. An expert in plant health care in ILwill remove affected branches for you.

Canker disease

Canker is caused by fungi; Sphaeropsis affects pine trees while Cytospora affects spruce trees. Both these fungi kill the bark of trees in sections. As such, an affected tree may have healthy branches interspersed with unhealthy or dead ones. The branch will be leaking with a sticky resin and it is best to let a knowledgeable tree disease control expert in IL handle the problem.

Root rot

Roots can rot due to several fungi such as Armellaria, Fomes, Phytophthora, Ganoderma, etc. One can identify root rot by looking for discolored needles, needles that are smaller than the average size, slow rate of growth and discolored wood at the stem’s base.

Trees can easily topple over if they are unhealthy. This poses a serious risk to humans and property. Trees may fall down over prolonged periods of illness or when facing strong gusts of wind. Expert arborists can easily identify the cause of the problem and treat trees effectively. In cases where death of the tree is evident or unavoidable, they will suggest chopping it down. One can also avail special services such as tree transplantation and large tree plantation if one doesn’t want to have an empty yard for a long time while waiting for new trees to grow.

 

Garden Paving Tips

For a huge zone of clearing which must be hard surfaced consider the utilization of cement laid, that is on the spot. It is perpetual, needs no support and can be formed to suit any shapes or levels. Since cement extends and contracts with changes in temperature it ought to just be laid in ranges of not more than 3 meters, around three yards square. On the off chance that the range to be cleared is bigger than this it should be separated into an example or fortified.

When clearing a little garden, in cement is likely best laid in squares set conveniently alongside each other with just a slight crevice between, conceivable loaded with sand. On the off chance that each square is permitted to dry before the following one is laid, filling the joints ought not be important. Cement can be finished in various approaches to deliver intriguing examples: drawing a solid sweeper crosswise over it when it’s about set, for instance makes a ribbed surface and brushing concrete before its completely dry uncovered the rock total in its arrangement, making a pebbly wrap up. On the off chance that you are utilizing another person to carry out the occupation, have an example arranged on the ground or in an old seed box as a guide. A complex method for utilizing as a part of cement is to lay it in an example with block, rock setts or even solid pieces in a differentiating shading.

Laying your own concrete is a comparatively cheap way to surface an area but the work is heavy and messy. It must be carefully planes and requires more than one pair of hands. The first thing to do is to calculate the volume of concrete needed, which is indicated by the chart; then decide on the correct mix for the job. For a small area you can buy bags of dry-mixed concrete, so that all you have to do is add water. Otherwise you can order ingredients and mix them yourself, either with a shovel or small hired concrete mixer. For major jobs – if you are using more than about 3 cubic meters of concrete, the most practical method is the ready mix truck that delivers the concrete and pours it by chute directly to where it will be used. If you use ready mixed concrete, have the site fully prepared, with the entire wooden frame work ready for when the lorry arrives. When it is not possible to pour it directly into the frame work, you can transport the concrete by wheel barrow. But you will need help, since the concrete must be laid within 2 hours of delivery and 1 cubic meter takes about 40 wheel barrow loads.

In situ concrete requires a firm and level surface. If the soil is fairly firm and you want a surface level with the surrounding ground, all you need to do is to dig down to the same depth as the concrete area – 100mm for a drive, 50mm for a path. With loose soil, put down a layer of rubble first and compact it with a roller; paths need 25mm to 50mm of rubble, while drives need 75mm. when laying concrete on a cracked base, first break this up and compact the rubble, as a new layer laid on top of an old base will often crack or scale.

Laying Concrete

  • In setting out the formwork for in situ concrete, prepare a base at least 100mm wider than the proposed size of the finished area of paving. Build a strong formwork from 25mm by 75mm timber, with pegs at 1 meter intervals. Check the formwork with a spirit level, allowing a drainage slope of 6mm in 300mm. a 20mm thick block of wood placed under the batten supporting the spirit level will give the correct slope for a path 1 meter wide.
  • Pour the concrete into the formwork, getting it as near as possible to its final position so as to minimize further handling. Use a rake or shovel to spread the mix evenly, leaving about 25mm above the formwork to allow for compaction.
  • Compact and level the concrete with a heavy plank. Lift the plank a little and then drop it, moving it along half the thickness of the plank each time; repeat this process and finally remove excess concrete by sliding the plank from side to side with a sawing action.
  • When the surface water has evaporated, finish the concrete with a wooden float. Move the float in sweeping arcs to bring the fine particles to the surface.
  • If you want a rough, non-slip texture, drag a broom across the surface of the concrete. The stiffer the bristles, the rougher the final texture will be.
  • The aggregate in the concrete can be exposed to give a pebbly surface. When the concrete begins to harden, hose it gently and brush away the top layer of cement. Cover newly laid concrete with damp sacking, waterproof building paper or polythene sheets. After about four days in warm weather and up to ten in winter, the concrete should have set sufficiently to take light weights, but keep heavy loads off for another four to ten days just to be safe.

Concrete slabs

The pre-cast slab is by far the most commonly used paving material, though it is more expensive than concrete laid. Used sensitively over a limited area, without too much pattern and little colour, it is an excellent material, being hard wearing and easy to clean. Concrete slabs also mellow fairly quickly and their colours even fade; this is often a blessing, for the over patterned terrace is as demanding to walk on as the over patterned carpet inside. Check the colour of any slab you want, seeing it both wet and dry.

Paving slabs come in most sizes and shapes: squares, rectangles, circles and even pre-arranged crazy paving in a variety of different textures. Patterns can then are made up as desired but remember that a paving pattern is only part of a larger design and it should not be allowed to disrupt the whole, so keep it simple.

Depending on the wear that the terrace or path will take, slabs can be laid either in sand or in mortar. Another method when laying them in sand is to use four to five evenly spaced spots of mortar for each slab. They should always be laid to fall away from any structure allowing the surface water to run off. Make sure you lay the slab the right way, with the coarse textured side upwards. If the paving abuts the lawn, set the slab 10mm below the grass to allow form mowing.

Interlocking paving blocks used for road construction in some countries for years have recently been adapted for home landscaping. They are ideal for use in the garden, on a terrace or a drive. They are made of higher quality concrete and can be laid flush in an interlocking pattern without mortared joints. Their virtue is that they can take considerable weight and do not creep laterally, as smaller paving materials tend to do with weight upon them. Concrete blocks are available in various colours and are textures like a brick, patterns varying according the manufacturer.

Kerbing Paved Areas

A kerb may not be necessary, if the paving itself holds back the earth sufficiently. A kind of mini retaining barrier is needed only where there is an abrupt change of level between path and bed and where you cannot simply excavate earth form below the paving and throw the soil back into the bed.

If possible, make a curb out of the same material as the paving. Builders, left to their own device, tend to kerb the edge of any pavement with a heavy piece of concrete whether it complements the paving material or not. The advantage of concrete kerbs is that they are available in fairly long runs. They can work well if the path is paved with concrete slabs, for instance, or where concrete forms part of the paving pattern.

A concrete kerb looks better placed so that the square edge of the kerb is up right, with the rounded edge in the ground. Additionally foundations should be placed underneath a kerb, or the kerb itself set higher than the main paving so that it effectively retains it (the smaller the paving unit the more essential this is).